Dining out: Chameleon Café is irresistible
by Lynn Williams
maindish@baltimoreguide.com
Ask local restaurant buffs to name their favorite places to dine, and Chameleon Café is sure to pop up at the top of many lists. The Lauraville charmer may not be the most high-profile restaurant in town, but its winning combination of down-home sweetness and top-tier gourmet cooking makes it irresistible. It has even been credited with ramping up the desirability of its neighborhood, which has more appealing dining and shopping venues—and way-higher real estate prices—than it did before Chameleon’s arrival on the scene five years ago.
The charm begins with the building’s lilac-hued exterior, which sports a mural of Renoir’s “Luncheon of the Boating Party”—except that the lady in the bonnet is puckering up to kiss a chameleon instead of a fluffy dog. The converted rowhouse’s dining room also has a handmade, far-from-corporate look, with sponge-painted pumpkin-colored walls and art that’s the work of talented local schoolchildren.
The young “mom and pop” behind this particular family business are Jeff and Brenda Wolf Smith. He’s the executive chef, a graduate of Baltimore International Culinary College and an alumnus of Emeril’s in New Orleans; his menu focuses on fresh American fare prepared with classical French techniques. Chameleon-like, it changes with the seasons. House-made charcuterie—pates, terrines and sausages—are a specialty.
Our adventure began with a Swiss-style rosti ($7.95), a fish-and-potato cake topped with a “marinated leek, artichoke and fennel relish” with a mysterious fruity sweetness. This was, quite simply, the best coddie ever made. Two slender wedges of quiche-like leek tart ($7.95) had to be picked up and eaten by hand, as their Irish cheddar crust would not yield to a fork. They were nonetheless delicious, as was the accompanying watercress. (Chameleon’s garnishes are in themselves so yummy that they always get devoured.)
There were only three scallops in my husband’s entrée order ($23.95), but they were huge ones, moistened with a luscious citrus beurre blanc and accompanied by multi-colored baby carrots, ramps (a spring green) and a generous dollop of colcannon, an Irish dish of mashed potatoes and leeks. Even better—if humanly possible—was the lamb loin ($26.95), served rare and meltingly tender, topped with a rich mushroom duxelle and nestled next to English pea risotto. I’m not a huge fan of either rice or peas, but I swooned nevertheless.
Only three desserts were offered, and you can’t possibly go wrong with the crème brulée, the flourless chocolate cake, or a whipped cream-topped fruit crumble ($5.75) with a cashew crust—just the kind of thing you wish your grandmother would bake for you.
The Latest Dish…
Filled to the brim with chocolate pizza after last week’s visit to BOP, I managed to resist the temptation offered by the new gelateria right next door. But the siren call of gelato can’t be ignored forever! The new place is called Petango (802 S. Broadway in Fells Point), and it’s no mere ice cream shop. These incredible sorbets and gelatos are made from top-shelf ingredients: organic milk and cream from grass-fed cows on Petango’s own farm in Kinzers, Pa., free-range organic eggs gathered the same day they’re used, imported hazelnuts from Italy, seasonal organic fruit, grown locally. And despite its dense texture and rich taste, gelato actually has a lower fat content than ice cream! This stuff makes you feel good about eating it, not just while eating it.
