Dining Out: Big Kahuna Cantina presents Polynesian-Mexican cuisine

by Lynn Williams
maindish@baltimoreguide.com

There are definite advantages to eating at Harborplace.
First, of course, are fireworks. If you haven’t secured your reservation for the fourth, good luck!
Also, in no particular order, are people-watching (a cross-section of the world’s population seems to be strolling on the promenade on any given evening, many with adorable babies in tow), tall ships (awe-inspiring vessels from India and Brazil, on our last visit), and free entertainment (if the conversation dwindles, you can always watch a street performer juggling a machete, a flaming torch, and a bowling ball).
And then there’s the fact that any tourist mecca generates low expectations. A harborside restaurant doesn’t have to be particularly good to draw business, goes the belief, so a better-than-anticipated meal will put diners in a particularly happy frame of mind.
Big Kahuna is certainly in this better-than-it-has-to-be category, especially considering its tourist-friendly surfer theme and its chain provenance. It’s the creation of Capital Restaurant Concepts, Ltd., which operates 11 eateries in the Baltimore/D.C. area, including J. Paul’s and Paolo’s. The first of its kind, it rocks the surf-culture theme with a Mexico-meets-Polynesia fusion menu, outdoor dining under thatched palapas, and agreeably kitschy décor, heavy on the tikis and masked Mexican wrestlers.
We tackled both sides of the Asian/Latin divide with an order of chicken satay ($8.95) and a cup of vegetable-crab tortilla soup ($5.50). The satay was an upright construction of marinated chicken breast pieces, balanced against a mount of tender sesame-infused slaw; the dipping sauce had about ten times the normal firepower.
The soup was actually a thick, rich gumbo with lots of crab mixed in. More crab – snowy white lump – was spooned generously on top. I would certainly trust this place with anything having to do with crab. (And, indeed, I’ve heard that the “tubular” crab enchiladas are fab.)
In the blackened mahi-mahi tacos ($13.95) the fish was tossed with more of that fine sesame slaw and chipotle tartar sauce and wrapped in flour tortillas. Guacamole-topped Spanish rice and beans were served on the side.
While Kahuna’s entrees are generally portioned for surfers rather than more sedentary souls, this one was more manageable than most. Not so the Papa Kahuna steak ($23.95), a huge, chili-rubbed New York strip plated with a heap of papas asadas (skin-on potato wedges) and fiercely salty creamed spinach with feta. (The dish also comes with a small margarita!) I’ve been eating this steak all week and haven’t made much of a dent.
We could only manage a shared dessert, a coconut custard crème caramel ($5.95) with mango slices. After all this concentrated richness, even a surfer wouldn’t want to get into the water again for at least an hour.
Good-deal note: If you sign up at the corporate website (www.crcmail.com) they’ll give you a coupon for a free second entrée.
The Latest Dish…
Baltimore Restaurant Week doesn’t begin until July 30, but reservations are already being taken for this popular promotion. Through August 5, a batch of high-profile local places – more than 80 at last count - are offering special three course menus for $30.07, plus tax, tip and drinks. (Some are doing three-course $20.07 lunches, as well.)
Many of the participating restaurants are big-ticket venues where thirty bucks won’t even bag you an entrée, so now’s the time to try them. And we’re sure that the more modestly-priced places on the list will really be pulling out the stops to give diners their money’s worth.
For a list of the restaurants, with links to their special menus, online reservations, and parking garages offering discounts, surf over to www. baltimorerestaurantweek.com.

Big Kahuna Cantina
301 Light Street, Harborplace
Hours: 11:30 a.m. -9 pm. Monday-Thurday,
11 a.m. -10 p.m. Friday-Saturday
11 a.m. -9 p.m. Sunday
Phone: 410-539-7060
Our meal for two
(with free entrée coupon): $53.13