Afternoon at Fells Point eatery suits to a “tea”
by Lynn Williams
maindish@baltimoreguide.com
All hail the magic power of tea! The drink that can be a warming stimulant, perfect for keeping us going through the sluggish days of winter, is just the thing to cool us down and mellow us out when the temperature climbs perilously close to 100 degrees.
For our latest escape from the elements, Ann and I chose Teavolve, Fells Point’s atypically urbane “contemporary tea lounge” in Fells Point. (The business began life as Tea-ology, but that name had already been taken.) Teavolve has made a name for itself not only for its extraordinary selection of loose-leaf teas, but for its cool vibe, which flouts the usual tearoom stereotypes. Yes, proprietor Sunni Gilliam offers a traditional afternoon tea on Saturdays and Sundays, complete with scones and tea sandwiches, and yes, she has played host to groups of tea-loving Red Hatters. But Teavolve has none of the usual frilly Victorianisms. Instead, think of a particularly soigné coffeehouse, with sleek banquettes and modern art that fuses painting and poetry.
Except for the weekend tea parties, the menu centers on salads, paninis and quiche. The last of these is not made in-house, but we didn’t complain about the “outsourcing” when we tasted the results. Instead of the usual wedge, the basil and sun-dried tomato quiche ($7.50) was a petite pie with a cute scalloped edge. The flavors were harmonious, the crust tender; with its accompanying tangle of balsamic-dressed spring greens it was a delightful light lunch for a hot day.
Ann’s panini ($6.50) - grilled chicken breast with fresh mozzarella, pesto and sweet red peppers on thick-cut, sturdy bread - was satisfyingly gooey and hearty, without being too overwhelming for summer.
We bypassed the loose tea assortment – teas, by the way, are available hot or iced – for two cooling tea-laced concoctions, a cold chai latte and a mango smoothie made with antioxident-rich green tea.
Our desserts included a sweet potato tart, made by the same baker who supplies the quiche, and a couple of handmade chocolate truffles from Parfections. (Teavolve also stocks pastries by Patisserie Poupon.) The tart, pumpkin pie’s more exotic cousin, boasted a pretty pastry garnish and a flavor that recalled autumn – not a bad recollection in scorching July. And the chocolates…wow. Can you imagine the flavors of fresh raspberries, or of a lime, mint and rum mojito, married with seductively soft dark chocolate? You want one, right?
The best news for tea lovers is that Teavolve is expanding, as well as launching its own private label tea line. In August, look for a second Teavolve in Harbor East’s Eden Apartments, next to Pazo. Teavolve Café and Lounge will be twice the size of its current incarnation, and will serve beer, wine – and tea-infused martinis!
Teavolve
Location: 1705 Eastern Ave.
Hours: Open 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tues.-Sun.
Phone: 410-327-4832
Our lunch for two: $29.66
The Latest Dish…
Belvedere Square is currently Harry Potter Central, what with “The Order of the Phoenix” showing at the Senator, activities in connection with this week’s “Deathly Hallows” launch at Daedalus Books, and the Wizard’s Matinee Brunch, a brainchild of the nearby Ryan’s Daughter Irish Pub, 600 E. Belvedere Ave. (Of course, Hogwarts is in Scotland, but we’ll let that pass.) At the brunch, which will be held from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday mornings as long as the film is showing in the neighborhood, customers can choose the $17.99 all you can eat buffet, or order from the regular menu or the children’s menu, which has been “Hogwartized” for the occasion. Patrons will be seated according to Hogwarts houses, and kids will be able to take home wands and other goodies. If you see the film, save your Senator ticket stub, which will get you a $5 discount on brunch. Oh, yes, and there’s plenty of free parking for your car. Or your thestral.
For reservations and details, call Ryan’s Daughter at 410-464-1000.
