Dining Out: Feeling revolutionary? Try a trip to Red Emma’s

by Lynn Williams
maindish@baltimoreguide.com

Red Emma’s is a bookstore, a performance venue, and a café. Most of all, though, Red Emma’s is a salon. Before the word was co-opted by beauticians, it meant a place where people get together for conversation, usually of an intellectual, artistic, or political nature. And that’s exactly what Red Emma’s is. You may think you’re going in for a bagel and a ‘zine, but you’ll probably end up gabbing with people at the tables, or at the counter, or with the cheerful dreadlocked counter guy. (If you’re not the social sort, you can hide behind a computer; they’ve got free Wi-Fi.)
Democratically operated by a workers’ collective, Red Emma’s, named for anarchist godmother Emma Goldman, features an array of wares including books (from Noam Chomsky to the new Harry Potter), t-shirts (no right-wingers need apply), publications with a radical or feminist bent, and fair-traded coffees and teas. They also offer food, which is why I came…although I stayed to gab.
In its early days, Red Emma’s was completely vegan. Certified organic dairy products eventually made their way onto the menu, which is still all-vegetarian, centering on soups, salads, sandwiches and wraps, and vegan desserts and baked goods.
We had no luck with the soup; despite the heat of the day, there seemed to have been a run on the miso. So we delved right in with sandwiches. My daughter’s Aztlan ($5)—Cheddar cheese toasted on an open-faced jalapeño bagel, topped with guacamole, a slice of tomato and a spoonful of salsa—was a hit with both of us. Which was lucky for me, as my Banh Mi Chay ($4) was fated to remain mostly uneaten. This Vietnamese-inspired concoction comprised sliced lemongrass tofu (extremely salty), soy mayo (also salty), shredded red cabbage, carrots and cilantro on a Kaiser roll. Not only did the sodium reach near-inedible levels, but the whole idea of tofu on a roll just seems wrong. A side spinach salad ($2) drizzled with creamy lemongrass dressing wasn’t particularly exciting, but it did help us get our greens.
I had my doubts about vegan chocolate cheesecake, but it was terrific. It tasted more of cinnamon than chocolate—it may have been mislabeled—but managed to seem both rich and light, and sexier than any dessert should that happens to be made of tofu. We also enjoyed the “blendy freezy drink” ($4), a mocha shake also known as “the f-word” to avoid that other f-word coined by Starbucks. The guy behind the counter also offered to turn my daughter’s Naked mango juice into a smoothie. The bottle actually produced two smoothies – a pleasant form of “sharing the wealth” that the real Emma would have approved.
The Latest Dish…
It’s not only the Irish that are creating restaurants with unpronounceable names. Arriving on the Inner Harbor scene next month will be Fogo de Chao, a Brazilian churrascaria. The first Maryland branch of a Brazil-born chain, Fogo de Chao (pronounced Fogo Day Shown) will offer skewered meats—beef, pork, lamb and chicken—grilled over an open flame and carved at tableside by real live gauchos (South American cowboys). They’ll keep them coming until you cry uncle. There’s also a 30-item salad bar, a “Wine Spectator”-honored wine list, authentic Brazilian cocktails, seating for 300, and valet parking. The AYCE price for the churrascaria feast is $42.50 for dinner and $22.50 for lunch, with a salad bar-only option for $19.50 anytime. If all this is making you hungry, watch 600 E. Pratt St. for the grand opening, and get ready to call 410-528-9292 for reservations.
Speaking of new restaurants, stay tuned. Next week I’ll introduce you to Watertable, the Renaissance Harborplace Hotel’s sleek new space celebrating contemporary Chesapeake cuisine.

Red Emma’s Bookstore Coffeehouse
Location: 800 St. Paul St.
Hours: Open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mon.-Sat.,
10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sun.
Phone: 410-230-0450