Within sight of downtown is a market where women wear unadorned cloth dresses, aprons and net caps, and the men wear long-sleeved buttoned-up shirts, suspenders and long pants.
Elmer Esh walks through this world, greeting his customers as well as fellow vendors of meats, poultry, produce and baking goods as he goes along. He’s from Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, and he makes the trip to the 3300 block of Annapolis Road on a regular basis.
The only Amish market in Baltimore City is a part of a complex that also includes the Patapsco Arena and catering hall, flea market and bingo parlor. Technically, the Dutch Farmers’ Market has been up and running since May, but now, with 15 stalls filled and operating, it has held its formal grand opening and is ready to serve the community.
“We need people to know we’re here,” says Esh. “Some of the people in the neighborhood don’t even know it.”
If the city limits are an odd place to find an Amish market, consider this: the closest such market for a long time has been at North Point, and apart from that, Baltimoreans have had to rely on a succession of monthly or weekly seasonal flea markets in the spring and summer — and on their local grocery stores for everything else.
The man behind the Amish market (and the rest of the complex) is Joe Brzuchalski, the owner. He’s been in charge of the bingo parlor and the Patapsco Arena (the catering hall) and the flea market for about five years, and had the notion of adding the market because he felt it would be a natural fit.
“I was looking around and I saw the one on North Point Road, and the one in Annapolis, and I thought, ‘we need something like this for our customers out here too.’”
The Amish market is open Thursdays from 9 a.m.-5 p.m., Fridays from 9 a.m.-7 p.m. and Saturdays from 9 a.m.-4 p.m. The flea market, held Saturdays and Sundays from 8 a.m.-5 p.m., hosts more than 1,000 vendors weekly. Bingo is played five nights a week (the hall is closed on Tuesdays and Thursdays) starting 7:30 p.m. most nights, 6 p.m. on Sundays. Bingo costs about $15 per evening, and includes about 33 games.
Patapsco Arena, also on the premises, is a catering hall, and is available seven days a week.
“We’d probably be open 24/7 if we had the right event,” laughs Sandy Kingsborough, director of sales and marketing for the complex.
The arena is located in the former A&P building, if you’re a long-time resident of Baltimore.
The Amish vendors who sell everything from produce to poultry to ice cream to pretzels say they’re hoping the flea market crowd will cross-pollinate and bring in the business.
“Because everyone knows where the Patapsco Flea Market is,” says Jonas King. “It’s really big.”
Big might be an understatement. Sandy claims it’s one of the largest on the East Coast. And once those locals get in the doors of the market, and get a taste of the fresh pulled pork barbecue, they’re hooked for life.
“It doesn’t taste like anything you’d get at the grocery store,” she adds. “It’s really wonderful. And now I buy all the lunchmeat I need for my family here.”
Elmer Esh and Jonas King say that as the calendar turns through the year, Baltimoreans can order freshly-killed turkeys for Thanksgiving, and hams and lamb for Easter, and they always have meats including sausage, beef, ribs, chicken and more. There are counters with fresh offerings including salads, deli meats and sides, baked goods, candy and more.
The bingo hall draws about 400 people a night, and has free van transport service. Joe Brzuchalski has gotten to know his clients, says Sandy Kingsborough, and dedicates much of the proceeds of the games to charities including the American Legion, Catholic War Veterans and more.
“If anyone dies, he sends flowers,” she says with a sigh. “If they’re in the hospital, he sends candy and cards or flowers. He’s just the nicest, most wonderful man.”
The atmosphere from the head office sifts down to the Amish market, where customers’ inquiries are met with smiles and where happy chatter is part of the sales experience. The prices are more than reasonable and the selection of common items and esoteric ingredients is as mind-blowing as the variety of ways to tempt yourself. Here you’ll find whoopie pies, shoofly pies, sticky buns, pumpkin rolls and more.
“It’s all fresh and it’s all wonderful,” noted the Amish woman who rang up an order of whoopie pies. “We make it all ourselves.”
And for those who find themselves wondering: yes, they take credit cards at the Amish Market. And if you run short of cash at the flea market on Saturday or Sunday, well, that’s not a problem either.
“Oh, yes, we have ATMs,” Sandy says with a laugh. “We have ATMs just everywhere.”
Note: The complex that holds Patapsco Arena, bingo hall, flea market and Amish market is at 3301 Annapolis Road, in the 21230 zipcode. The office phone number is 410-354-3150, e-mail sandy@patapscoarena.com, www.patapscoarena.com. Hours are as follows: The Amish market is open Thursdays from 9 a.m.-5 p.m., Fridays from 9 a.m.-7 p.m. and Saturdays from 9 a.m.-4 p.m. The flea market is held Saturdays and Sundays from 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Bingo is played five nights a week (closed Tuesdays and Thursdays) starting 7:30 p.m. most nights, 6 p.m. on Sundays. (Note: The bingo hall has a concession stand.)
