by Lynn Williams
maindish@baltimoreguide.com
When you’re 15 years old, one of the true definitions of hell is being in a restaurant where not only does your mother know all the songs, but is tempted to sing along. That said, my daughter didn’t have a hellish time at My Panini, as one of her definitions of heaven is eating in a restaurant with bright colors, modern design, a water view, and tasty food with ample vegetarian options.
Stylistically, My Panini, the second outpost of a chain based in Atlanta, resembles Panera, Cosi, and other fast-casual sandwich places. Its walls sport bold graphics and intense colors, including what might be called neon kiwi, and there’s a soft-seating area with leather sofas and armchairs. My Panini has a couple of advantages over the Panera-type places, though. Namely, a waterside deck, live entertainment—a guy with a guitar and a large Boomer-friendly repertoire—and table service. And booze, which meant that the guy-with-guitar had to put up with lots of remarks and requests from a loudmouth who’d probably had one too many Mudslides.
The menu is, obviously, devoted to panini, the Italian sandwich pressed in a special grill that leaves the outside ridged and crisp, the interior melty and smooshed together. Some are made here with the traditional ciabatta, others with sourdough or even tortillas, filled with various combinations of meats, cheese and vegetables. There’s even a vegan version featuring Portobello mushrooms and avocado.
My daughter chose the Caprese Italiano ($6.89)—mozzarella, roasted red pepper, roasted tomato, fresh basil and pesto aioli—while I ordered my panino (yes, that’s the singular) with “Maryland-style crab and shrimp cake” and caramelized onions ($8.99). She got the best of the deal, Although the red pepper overbalanced the other flavors, her sandwich simply had more character than mine; the “cake”—salad, more like—had a generic “seafood” flavor, not particularly shrimpy, crabby, or Maryland-esque. Her ciabatta bread was gutsier, too.
On the other hand, the Maryland crab soup ($2.99) had as much crab flavor as anyone could want, and the price was right.
We also sampled two salads, a Caesar ($3.59), pretty good for a chain Caesar, if not the best of the bunch (that would be Carrabba’s), and the My Panini signature salad ($3.99). The latter was drenched in altogether too much raspberry vinaigrette, but I’m still pleased that our cultural culinary sophistication has increased to the point that even chains offer salads with craisins, apples, sunflower seeds, slivered almonds, and Gorgonzola.
Panini platters are served with a tasty Southwestern bean, corn and pepper salad and Lay’s potato chips, or, for an extra 79 cents, “not fries.” These sounded great—garlicky fries made in the panini press—but looked and tasted an awful lot like Tater Tots to me.
Desserts ($5.99) include an Italian sponge cake filled with lemon cream, and a nice, moist, chunky carrot cake. They aren’t made in-house, but are satisfying if not smashing. That’s pretty much the way everything is at My Panini. You may not find anything that will knock your socks off, but the mood is so upbeat and mellow you won’t be inclined to gripe much. So let’s all sing along together: “Don’t worry ‘bout a thing, ev’ry little thing gonna be alright…”
My Panini
Pier V Hotel, 711 Eastern Ave.
Hours: Open 6:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.,
6:30 a.m. to midnight Fri.,
7:00 a.m. to midnight Sat.,
7:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sun.
Phone: 410-528-8670
Our dinner for two: $40.42
The Latest Dish…
Speaking of veggie-friendly restaurants, there’s sad news afoot. Although the Station North neighborhood, which includes Tapas Teatro, Sofi’s Crepes and Joe Squared, is stronger than ever, quirky Zodiac hasn’t been so lucky: it closed August 9. Owner Joy Martin blames construction-related damage. But we’re wondering if the Zodiac’s famous ghost, a sinister elderly man in a white suit, might have had a hand in it…Vin is only temporarily closed, but its staff is already scattering. Manager Billy Patterson and sous chef Justin McGaunn are involved in a new restaurant called Luckie’s Tavern, opening Mid-September at the Power Plant.
